Today, the restored market on Merchant Street was opened to the general public. This is the first Valletta 2018 flagship project to be launched. Sufficient time has elapsed since the closing of the old market for the stories of the former market traders to become part of the nostalgia for an old Valletta that no longer exists. The old butcher who had a framed letter from the King of England has re-established in a modern new shop round the corner from my flat, the other butcher who lives in my block has found a place near Freedom square, the old Deli has set up on Archbishop Street and the old fish shop moved to Gzira but may return somewhere in Valletta.
The process of restoration of the old market has been marked by complaints from Valletta residents whose sleep was destroyed by all night drilling and concrete laying. The whole block has been a mess of parked cars, lorries, construction bins and heavy machinery. The confusion on Merchant Street has been exacerbated by new restaurant outlets riding on the back of the promise of gentrification offered by the new market and by established restaurants grabbing more public space for tables and plastic tents. In the evenings, the cars of restaurant diners joined the government vehicles parked in the square and down the side streets next to the market so that it became impossible to walk through without feeling threatened by cars looking for a park or opening doors in your face.
Further outrage erupted when a large aluminium and glass covered area sprouted at the front of the roof level, masking the old lines. I was even more concerned about the cantilevered structure at the back jutting onto St Paul's street so that the traffic lane was narrowed, the local bus stop disappeared and pedestrians were forced to cross the road on rapidly fading crossings originally painted for Malta's Presidency of EU at the start of 2017. When the railings appeared on this cantilevered construction, it became obvious that we would no longer be able to walk through the market from Merchant Street to St Paul's Street. This walk through had been one of my delights in the old market.
As we got closer to opening, a ramp appeared on St Paul's Street and I thought perhaps pedestrians would have a safe covered footpath past the back of the market with an entry to the food shops at the basement level. But no, this was to be for truck delivery and unloading. I adopted the Maltese practice of "We'll see" with a slight inclination of the head. I determined that my interest lay in how the new market would work in practice. Would there be benefits for the local community in the convenience of supermarket shopping?
And today was the big day! I walked down St Paul's Street after the declared opening time of 10.00am. Two restaurant workers in black aprons stood on the cantilevered projection smoking cigarettes. I called out a cheery, "What time do you open?" They stood on their cigarettes and went inside. I walked down the ramp, thinking I might be able to get into the basement food shops but the back door was closed. At the other side of the ramp, three more workers were smoking cigarettes and dropped their ends on St Paul's Street as I approached. I walked down the side street to Merchant Street.
The front of Is-Suq tal-Belt was vibrant and busy. Outdoor heaters were on in one of the front open air spaces with mostly Maltese people sitting over coffee. Others were coming and going at the entrance gathering in small groups to chat. I felt heartened. Perhaps people will make this renovation into a community space after all.
Inside, the food hall was as busy as any other shopping mall anywhere in the world. The only difference was the line of wine bars down the centre. I made a circuit and then headed down on the escalator to the food market. I was hoping for individual outlets but was not surprised by the kind of upmarket supermarket that I found. Most people were doing the same as me, walking around to check things out without buying anything. Mirrors covered the back entrance that I had hoped would offer a route through the market from Merchant to St Paul's street. The up escalator wasn't working so I walked up and then discovered the lift. Maybe I could explore the upper levels that were scheduled as art and social spaces. The lift was limited to the basement and ground floors. The upper floors are not yet complete. I had to be content to gaze up from ground level at the beautiful iron supports and ceiling and try to imagine what might go on up there. The internal wall of the roof level verandah on Merchant St is also covered in mirrors. So I will have to wait to see how this will work in practice. As I looked up, a young restaurant worker came out of one of the food stalls dragging a huge black plastic bag. He got into the service lift and presumably went down to the basement and up to the side street where I spotted a large collection of black plastic rubbish bags waiting for collection when I was walking home.
I will continue to wait and see how Is-Suq tan-Belt will work out in practice. It is clear that it has opened before it is finished and that systems for disposing of rubbish and enabling employees to smoke their cigarettes without polluting St Paul's street with smoke and cigarette ends have not been put in place. It is also clear to me that we have allowed a supermarket into Valletta streets without really considering the unique heritage of individual traders that the old market had nurtured. But other people in the housing block where I live are already saying how nice it is and how they are glad they have somewhere to buy fish again. I want to see it work out in practice and hope that it is not the nail in the coffin of small local businesses.
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